Fresh – A Lighting Tutorial

Today we’re going to look at a simple lighting setup that you can easily do at home to add a professional look to your still life shots, eBay ads, product photos and anything else you can think of. I’ve used the vegetables I just bought at the market for this, but the principles will be the same for anything you care to substitute.

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Setting up for this shot was quick and easy. I came back from the market with a bag full of vegetables and basically dumped them onto a piece of white seamless. To the left, I placed a flash on a lightstand pointing into a bounce umbrella. A couple of test shots showed too much shadow on the right, so I placed a sheet of white cardboard on the right to act as a reflector to throw a little light back into the shadows. I didn’t want to completely eliminate the shadow – if I did, I could have placed another light there, or moved my camera left light to a more overhead position.

Here’s the lighting setup. The diagram is from www.kevinkertz.com who makes a lighting diagram file available for sharing of setups. It’s a layered PSD file  and you can move things around until it shows the lighting setup you need.

LightingSetup

As long as you have some means of getting the flash off-camera, all you really need is an umbrella and you can replicate this. I used a bounce umbrella but you could just as easily use a shoot-through. In fact, I normally use shoot-throughs when I incorporate umbrellas – the umbrella I used can be used as both a bounce and a shoot-through. The only reason I chose to bounce was because I was too lazy to remove the black/silver backing from the umbrella. For my Taiwan readers, convertible umbrellas are available at Keystone for under NT$1000 – I think I paid $700 (US$20) and lightstands for a similar price. And that’s really all you need, moneywise. You could even get away without using an umbrella and shoot through a white bedsheet or shower curtain.  For a reflector, I used a sheet of cardboard and you could use the same as a background as well in place of the white seamless. I had an Elinchrom Skyport as my flash trigger – for those wanting to do things cheaper, there are a variety of very cheap RF triggers, affectionately known as Poverty Wizards, available for US$20 or so on eBay, and as a bonus for those in Taiwan, these triggers are available in most camera stores for a few hundred NT$. You could also use PC cords or TTL cords.

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For these shots, I set my camera and flash to manual.  I used the Canon EOS 5D Mark II with a 50mm f1.8 lens and 550ex speedlight triggered by the Elinchrom Skyport. The flash was set at 1/8 power, and the camera was ISO200, f5.6 and a 1/200 shutter speed.

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As usual, any comments or discussion is welcome.

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  • gee
    cool...i totally want to set up my own studio some time, but it's better to master one thing before jumping to the next.
  • Thanks Gee. It's good to master one thing at a time, but it's also fun to jump around as the mood takes you.
  • Chase Jarvis has a good post on his site about light meters.

    http://blog.chasejarvis.com/blog/2008/04/dear-lig...
  • apparently lots of photographers use the built-in light meter in the camera.

    ok, here's another of my Stupid Questions for you Craig:

    when do you shoot-thru, and when to you bounce? what's the criteria for either method? thanks.
  • There's not a whole lot of difference between them, most of the time. A shoot-through umbrella can be positioned much closer to the subject. Without getting too scientific, based on the inverse square law, the closer the light is, the more powerful it is. As a result of the extra power, you can dial in lower power settings on the flash (keeping some in reserve) which means faster recycle times for your batteries. (Check out Eneloop if you want a really good NiMH battery - about NT$500 for 4 and they hold their charge a lot longer than standard NiMH batteries). It also makes the apparent size of the light bigger which means softer. Softer light is usually what we want. In a two light setup (and ambient is counted here) you can create better separation between the subject and the background. This means you can light it differently if you want. I'll do a more complete post about this concept in the next couple of weeks.

    Bounce umbrellas work great when you can't bring the light in close, such as for small groups of people. And in a controlled environment like the shots in this post, either work fine.
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