Payathonzu Temple, Bagan, Burma.

Where can you find over 2000 ruined Buddhist temples in a relatively small area with few tourists and friendly local people? If you answered Bagan, Burma, then you are correct. If you didn’t, read on for a look at this fascinating place.

Burma aka Myanmar is a relatively isolated southeast Asian nation. Political issues mean that it’s generally cut off from the world and despite being located next to one of the regions most heavily traveled countries, Burma sees very few tourists. For those that do make it there, the traveling is far from easy but the rewards more than make up for any hardships encountered.

Debate rages over whether or not to travel to the country. On one hand there’s the argument that travel legitimizes the regime in Burma and only serves to benefit the government. Conversely, there are those that say it’s only by traveling there can people see what life is like and hence place pressure on their own governments to take action with regards to conditions on the ground. I’ve generally found that opinion is fairly evenly divided between both arguments and it was after considerable thought that I elected to go there back in 2001.

Thatbinyu Temple, Bagan, Burma

My main destination was to be the ancient city of Bagan in central Burma. I flew into the capital Yangon (formerly Rangoon) and spent a few days there before boarding an overnight bus for the 500km 18 hour ride to Mandalay. After a few days in Mandalay, it was down to the Ayeyarwady River for a pleasant 6 hour boat ride to Bagan where I planned to stay for a week.

Bagan covers an area of 41 square kilometers and between the 9th and 13th centuries CE, it was a major city, attracting monks and scholars from as far away as India and the Khmer empire. King Pyinbya moved the capital of Burma to the city in 857CE and the area flourished for the next 500 years, first as the capital and then after 1057CE, as an important religious and cultural center.

Bagan, Burma (Myanmar)

The Bagan Dynasty was the first to bring together the various regions that make up most of present day Myanmar. For 250 years until it fell to Mongol invasions, the kingdom helped lay the foundation for Burmese language and culture and played a key role in the growth of Theravada Buddhism throughout southeast Asia. Between the 11th and 13th centuries in particular, the building of temples proceeded at an astonishing pace. It’s though that over 10 000 were constructed during this time, 3000 of which remain in various states of ruin and restoration today.

Temples at Bagan, Burma (Myanmar)

One of the better restored temples is the Mahabodhi temple (seen below). Modeled after the Mahabodhi temple in Bodhgaya, India, it was constructed during the reign of King Htilominlo in the mid-twelfth century. Destroyed by an earthquake in 1975, it has been completely restored to it’s original state since. The niches around the stupa contain over 450 Buddha images. Unlike most temples in the region, the Mahabodhi temple is based on a square block and the tower rises from this base.

Mahabodhi Temple, Bagan

Mahabodhi Temple, Bagan

Once you arrive in Bagan, getting around the various temples is remarkably easy. The plain is perfectly flat and there’s very little traffic making it perfect for cycling around. Basic bicycles can be rented in various locations in Bagan and it is a popular way to get around, especially if you avoid the heat of the noon hours. It’s also possible to travel around by horse cart or for those pressed for time, car. Getting out early is recommended as the area is blessed with beautiful early morning light. The river area is also worth a look, particularly around sunset as you sip a cold drink and soak up the atmosphere.

Sunset on the Ayeyarwady River, Bagan.

Bagan and Burma in general is not for the faint hearted. Travel there is very rough and basic and a lot of creature comforts may be lacking. That said, if you have a bit of a thirst for adventure and want to experience a land that few others do, it makes a great choice. Costs in-country are relatively cheap. In general, it is a very safe place to travel. There are, from time to time, political protests that may make things a little dangerous, however these can be easily avoided. I’ll leave you with a few more photographs from Bagan to conclude this post.

Temples beside the road in Bagan, Burma (Myanmar).

Temples dot the landscape in Bagan, Burma (Myanmar).

Temples and trees at Bagan, Burma (Myanmar)