I’m really excited to introduce another Asia-based travel and cultural photographer to you today. Shaun Taylor McManus is based in Thailand and has recently returned from a photographic journey through India. The following photographs are from his series Between The Gaps which he describes as

When I set off to India, I thought about all the photo stories that I could cover. I had seen many photographs in the past of incredible faces and colourful vibrant scenes. I knew I would see little of this, as I was going to Kolkata. My aim was to document life, and that meant spending time in as many areas of the city as possible. My theme naturally developed, it is one that stood out clearer than anything else- the huge disparities in lifestyle, wealth and living environments.

Before we get into the images, here’s a quick overview of Shaun’s bio.

Beginning his photography career at university in England, Shaun’s first assignment was capturing the diverse multicultural society of modern Britain. After graduating Shaun continued his education, receiving a Masters in Anthropology and Development- two subjects which feature heavily in his photographic work.

Travelling extensively around East Asia, Shaun continues to document the people and cultural practices of each country he visits. He has had his photographs printed in publications such as The Times and Digital Photographer magazine, and was selected as Editors choice for Photographer of the Year 2009.

Shaun has now established a base in Thailand, where he spends his time working on television documentary productions for companies such as National Geographic and Discovery channel.

Here are Shaun’s chosen images from the series with his commentary underneath.

Legs ©2011 Shaun Taylor McManus

Still iconic of the Bengal state, the Rickshaw continues to be used in Kolkata despite being banned in 2005. In a city where many people struggle to make a living, tough and grueling jobs are just a means to feeding the family. Rickshaw pulling belongs to a bygone generation, as now most doing the job are older men. I wanted to shoot this photograph in a way that juxtaposes the long thin legs of the puller with the mechanical wheels.

Carrier ©2011 Shaun Taylor McManus

The chicken carriers are hard working men, who travel into Kolkata with trucks full of wicker baskets filled with live chickens. One man passes the basket down from the top of the truck and the other man lifts it onto his head and carries it into market. For this portrait, I wanted to capture life of the working man in India and the physical nature of his work.

Clay Head ©2011 Shaun Taylor McManus

The river is still central to life in Kolkata. Only meters away from where people are washing, men are working to transport large amounts of clay from their boat onto the shore. The man carries the heavy load on his head as he balanced agilely across a thin timber plank.

Leap ©2011 Shaun Taylor McManus

I wanted a photo that captured some life and spirit. I have taken photos of people jumping into rivers before, but I wanted this photo to be shot in a way that gives it a sense of direction and a feeling of optimism.

Little Walk ©2011 Shaun Taylor McManus

A common theme in India is homeless children. Where ever I went I could see young kids walking around, or working. I wanted a photo that captured both their innocence and vulnerability in such a hostile environment.

Tweet Tracks ©2011 Shaun Taylor McManus

The railway tracks are almost a social divider. Following the railway tracks, the edges are lined with makeshift shelters and women and children collect plastic packaging that have been dropped from train carriages. At certain times, crowds of busy businessmen who have recently disembarked walk across the railway to the business district, just meters from the poverty further down the tracks.

Wash At Bridge ©2011 Shaun Taylor McManus

The river is so central to life in much of India. People wash clothes, themselves and meet with friends and relatives for a swim. Despite the installment of water pumps on the street, people still seem to choose the river. This traditional form of sanitation is framed with the backdrop of the modern world, as the busy bridge carries the hectic traffic from one side of the city to the other.

Bright Eyes ©2011 Shaun Taylor McManus

One of my main aims for the photo story was to show the differences between those with and those without. For those with just a simple house, the quality of life was dramatically improved. The thing that shocked me most about Kolkata was the amount of people without even a simple roof over their heads. The early morning streets are covered with sleeping bodies which have endured the elements of day and night. This photo portrait of a child and mother who have a better standard of living. I wanted to capture the importance of family, a bond that seems to withstand any condition.

Be sure to visit his website at www.shauntaylormcmanus.com

Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center, Darjeeling, India

A somewhat sad anniversary of sorts passed by recently with the 50th year of the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center being marked, ironically, on October 1st. In 1959, months after the 14th Dalai Lama fled Tibet for what has become a life in exile, the Refugee Self Help Center was started. At the time, thousands of Tibetans had followed the Dalai Lama into exile, seeking the ability to live lives as free human beings, something that wasn’t possible in Chinese controlled Tibet.

Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center, Darjeeling, India

Following the notion that “without self-help there can be no rehabilitation, be it economic, social, psychological, cultural or spiritual”, a 10 member committee was formed in Darjeeling, India in order to establish a refugee self help center. The initial funds for the center came from subscriptions, donations, charity shows and an exhibition football match with later funding being received from CARE, Catholic Relief Services, National Christian Council, The Red Cross, World Veterans Federation, American Friends Committee, Church World Service all of which was organized via the Central Relief Committee (India).

Handicrafts and clothing, Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center

The chosen site on a hill side near the town of Darjeeling had special meaning for the Tibetans. It was at this location that the 13th Dalai Lama had spent his time in exile between 1910 and 1912 when the Chinese had also invaded Tibet. By the late 1950s, the site was small estate comprising almost four acres that was able to be leased and eventually bought from St. Joseph’s College.

The center started off with just 4 workers but today has become home to well over 700. Over the course of the fifty years it has been open, close to 2000 people have called it home and been trained in various crafts, with well over half of them going on to establish their own small businesses. Also, the centre provides free housing, food, medical care, pocket money for children, clothes, uniform and stationary. This program consists of the bulk of the expenses since its inception.

Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center

Over the fifty years the center has been opened, more than 400 orphans have passed through its doors. Most of them have been fortunate enough to receive sponsorship enabling them to go to various schools throughout India and in some cases, abroad. As well, primary education is offered onsite, with a small school consisting of 14 teachers. Great stress is also laid on adult education. Classes are held every morning to teach the workers at least the rudiments of reading and writing. As a result there is 60% literacy, whereas previously only a dozen or so refugees could read or write when they joined. The refugees are also taught some Hindi and English in the morning classes.

KIds at play, Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center, Darjeeling

As well as education and work training, the refugee self help center also has a medical program. Established with the assistance of American Relief Services n 1961, the hospital benefits not only the center residents but also the surrounding townsfolk. The hospital has 20 beds, an experienced doctor, two nurses and other assistants. It is equipped with facilities for TB screening, vaccinations, pre and post natal care as well as a separate pathological lab, X-ray center and dental clinic.

Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center, Darjeeling, India

If you’re interested in helping, visiting or finding out more, the center’s contact details are

Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center
65 Gandhi Road
Darjeeling
West Bengal 734101
India

President: Khedroob Thondup

General Secretary: Chime Rinchen
Manager: Dorje Tsetan

Tel:91-354-2255938

Fax:91-354-2254237

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One of the sixteen regions of ancient India was Magadha, and it’s first capital was the town of Rajgir (Rajagaha) in present day Bihar. Magadha is heavily mentioned in the Hindu epics Ramayana, Mahabharata and Puranas, as well as Buddhist and Jain scriptures. Two of India’s greatest empires, the Maurya and Gupta Empires originated in Magahda, empires that saw some of the greatest advances in Indian science, mathematics, religion and philosophy.

Buddhist Prayer Flags on Vulture's Peak

Rajgir, meaning “house of the king”, was the capital until the 5th century BCE. It was here, at the hill known as Vulture’s Peak, that Gautama, the historical Buddha, spent several months meditating and giving Dharma teachings, including the Sukarakhata Sutta. As well, one of the Buddha’s chief disciples, Sariputta, attained enlightenment at Vulture’s Peak, and the First Buddhist Council was held here three months after the Buddha passed away.

Tibetan pilgrim on Vulture's Peak, Rajgir, India.

Today, Rajgir is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists along with the nearby ruins of Nalanda university, one of the ancient worlds greatest universities. Located only 80km away from Bodhgaya, the holiest site in Buddhism, Vulture’s Peak attracts a steady flow of travelers. Next to Vulture’s Peak is Ratnagiri Hill, where the 40m high whitewashed Vishwashanti stupa built by the Japanese sits. Golden Buddha statues sit in the recesses of the stupa depicting the four stages of his life, namely birth, enlightenment, preaching and death. There’s also a Japanese monastery and 26 Jain shrines nearby. To get to the stupa, it’s possible to either walk up or take a single person chairlift to the top.

Chairlift to Ratnagiri Hill

Golden Buddha in the Vishwashanti Stupa

Gijjhakuta or Vultures Peak is today festooned with colorful Buddhist prayer flags around it’s rocky peak. Caves and shrines dot the hillside, including one where Buddha delivered sermons and another where Sariputta attained enlightenment. As well, the ruins of a small stupa may be seen, where Chinese monk Faxian made offerings around the year 400CE. It’s also believed that during the 13th century, tigers inhabited the caves on the rocky hillside.

Tibetan pilgrims in Rajgir

Prayer flags

11km to the west of the Indian city of Hyderabad lies the ruined Golconda Fort. Once the capital of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, the 16th century Shia Muslim rulers of the region, the area was renowned for its diamond trade. At the time, the only known diamond mines in the world were in India and Golconda was the central market city. Famed gems such as the Hope Diamond (currently housed in the Smithsonian), Koh-i-Noor (part of the British crown jewels), Darya-ye-Noor (Iranian crown jewels), and the Regent Diamond (currently part of the French treasury and on display in the Louvre) are from, or believed to be from Golconda.

The city and fortress are built on a granite hill that is 120 meters (400ft) high and is surrounded by massive crenelated ramparts. The beginnings of the fort date to 1143, when the Hindu Kakatiya dynasty ruled the area. The Kakatiya dynasty were followed by the state of Warangal, which was later conquered by the Islamic Bahmani Sultanat. The fort became the capital of a major province in the Sultanate and after its collapse, became the capital of the Qutb Shahi kings. The fort finally fell into ruins after a siege and its fall to Mughal emperor Aurangazeb.

It was the Qutb Shahi kings who were responsible for most of what can be seen today. Following the collapse of the Bahmani Sultanate, Golonda became the seat of the Qutb Shahi in the early 1500s. Over the next 60 years, the mud fort on the site was expanded upon with massive granite walls measuring 5km in circumference. The fort remained the seat of power until the capital was moved to present day Hyderabad in 1590. The site continued to serve as a major Shia centre through the 17th century with clerics such as Sheikh Ja`far bin Kamal al-Din and Sheikh Salih Al-Karzakani from Bahrain both spending time there.

The Qutb Shahi sultanate was conquered by Aurangazeb in 1687, with Golconda Fort holding out for another nine months before falling to the Mughals. The fort is actually made up of four separate forts, with 87 cicrcular bastions, 80 gateways, 4 drawbridges and numerous royal apartments, mosques and stables. It features a perfect acoustical system by which a hand clap sounded at the fort’s main gates, the grand portico, was heard at the top of the citadel, situated on a 300-foot (91 m)-high granite hill. This served as an alarm, giving the rulers time to escape if the fort was attacked.

One kilometer north of the outer wall lies the tombs of the Qutb Shahi sultans. Altogether there were seven sultans, with Sultan Quli Qutb-ul- Mulk being the founder in 1518. The Qutb Shahi sultans were known as patrons of learning and great builders. They didn’t restrict their patronage to the dominant Persian culture, also incorporating the regional Deccan culture with its mother tongue of Telugu, a Dravidian language of south India that is heavily influenced by Sanskrit,  and idiomatic Urdu, which is the main language of modern Pakistan.

The tombs are located amidst highly landscaped gardens known as Ibrahim bagh and are constructed with beautifully carved stonework.Architecturally, they are a mixture of Persian, Pathan and Hindu designs, and built from gray granite embellished with stucco decoration. Today, they are open to the public and receive a constant stream of visitors.

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Arambol Beach, Goa, 1997. Low-res film scan.

A low-res scan from my first trip to India in 1997/98. It may be low quality, but it’s something you don’t see every day. This is from the beach at Puri, Orissa.

After writing yesterdays post about Foguangshan, I decided to go through some of my old film archives and dig up some older images related to Buddhism.

In 2002-2003 I found myself in India for the third time, and Bodhgaya for the second. Bodhgaya is a small town in the state of Bihar that is the location of the Buddha’s enlightenment. Temples and monasteries from all nations that have a substantial Buddhist population are located there. During winter, Buddhist pilgrims from all over the world descend on the town, sending the population soaring twentyfold. I was spending a lot of time with some Thai friends, both monks and laity. One morning, I headed over to Wat Thai, Bodhgaya, the main Thai temple in town, for some coffee with the monks, something I did most days. We had planned to take a few people to the airport who were leaving to return to Thailand, but upon arriving at the airport, found out that the flight had been cancelled due to the thick fog that blankets the town in winter. Returning to Wat Thai, we noticed members of India’s elite security forces guarding the gates and a large contingent of media. Ushered in, we were told by the Abbot of Wat Thai that His Holiness the Dalai Lama was about to arrive for a visit and that we should hurry if we wanted to be inside the temple for the occasion. In we went, then the security forces closed the large temple doors, leaving members of the press outside with other curious onlookers. A few minutes later, the side doors opened and in walked the Dalai Lama and a group of Tibetan monks and translators. He bowed to the Buddha three times, took a seat and had some tea. The Thai monks chanted a sutra in Pali, then the Tibetans chanted in Tibetan. Finally, a short reception line was formed consisting of the Thai monks, a couple of Thai nuns and myself and the other 2-3 non-sangha members of the audience. His Holiness came down the line, stopping to exchange a few words and presenting us with a blessed kata scarf. Then he headed out, said a quick goodbye to the people outside and was ushered into the car and driven away.

Here’s some pictures from inside the temple. I apologize for the quality – they are low-res film scans.

Low-res film scan of a snake charmer, taken in Pushkar, India in 1997.

On the banks of the Ganges River, Varanasi, India.